A walk through Frankfurts former fortifications – Wallanlagen

Explore Frankfurts green centre by foot

  • Frankfurt-Wallanlagen

I hear again and again that Frankfurt is an ugly city with tall buildings and miserable people who only think of money, and that fortunately there is a large airport and a central station so that you can flee this city quickly. This preconception always makes me sad, and for this reason I would like to take you on a stroll and show you the real city of Frankfurt.

Get out of the suit, into the elevator!

Put your belongings in the hotel, maybe the Fleming’s Deluxe directly in the city or in the Hilton, because both are particularly well situated to start our trip into the Frankfurt City Green. You can also take the S-Bahn up to the Hauptwache, and from there you go out of town to the Eschenheimer Tor with the tube. The Tower, which is now a pub, is a former City gate from the 15th century and is almost perfectly preserved in its original form. Today it’s considered to be the landmark in downtown Frankfurt.

18:00
o'clock

Fleming's Deluxe Hotel Frankfurt-City

Escheinheimer Tor 2, 60318 Frankfurt am Main, Deutschland

From the Fleming’s Deluxe Hotel we have a wonderful view of the city. One of a few usable Paternoster elevators in Germany takes us almost right up to the hotel’s restaurant, and on the terrace, with an Aperol spritz or a real Frankfurt apple wine, we can admire the skyline and catch a glimpse of the fortified city.

The fortified city of Frankfurt

From here we go to the ramparts, a Green belt that winds its way through the city and is a wonderful place of peace and relaxation for locals and tourists.

The ramparts form a circular green space around the city centre of Frankfurt on the Main. They were formed at the beginning of the 19th century (1804 to 1812) on the site of the ancient fortifications of Frankfurt. The Ring road of Frankfurt runs around these ramparts.

Roughly walk in the direction of the Zoo; in the background we can hear the seemingly endless sound of the busy traffic from the Ring road, but we soon forget that as we enter the rest of the inner city Greens. Let’s go through the green heart of the financial metropolis!

20:00
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Of particular interest is the Nebbiensche Garden House which was built in 1810 in the Bockenheimer Anlage. The Nebbiensche garden House is a neoclassical Pavilion of the architect Nicolas Alexandre Salins de Montfort. The building belongs to the Frankfurt artists Club e. V., which has regularly organized art exhibitions since its renovation in 1952. The building includes an Italian Renaissance fountain, as well as a beautiful small well made from the top of a column. The Mozart monument is located opposite on the Mozartplatz. The Schwindhaus was built in 1845 by the artist Moritz von Schwind.

Not far from here is the building which used to house the Physical Association, where Philipp Reis presented his invention called a telephone (1861). The route of the U-Bahn line 5 separates the Eschenheimer Anlage by the Friedberger Anlage, and we cross over to the other side of the street. It takes us towards Bethmannweiher where we can watch the ducks and pigeons and imagine that Napoleon Bonaparte once stayed here in the country house of the family Bethmann.

Nearby you will find the Heiligkreuzgasse, the Court of Justice and the famous Palace of the Tiger. The restaurant offers exquisite cuisine and the theatre has a sensational variety program.

19:00
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We take the road towards Heiligkreuzgasse, and remain on the right side of the road where at number 9a, we can look through the windows of the restaurant Pasta Davini to determine if there are still a few places left in this Frankfurt mini restaurant. The restaurant looks like a fully occupied living room at Grandpa’s 80th birthday, and it feels a little bit like that too! We refresh ourselves with the home-made pasta, enjoy some wine, and then we head back.

Schillerstraße and Börsenplatz

We leave behind us the Obermainanlage, the last piece of the rampart, and plunge into the hustle and bustle of the Zeil, Germany’s largest shopping street located between Konstablerwache and Hauptwache. We could also take the S-Bahn and ride up to the Hauptwache, but we prefer to walk the 10 minutes to the Schiller Street and watch the fun shopping people of Frankfurt, and the tourists. One of many weekly markets in Frankfurt, the Schiller market, takes place here on Fridays. Then, right in front of the building of the Frankfurt Stock Exchange is a wine stand which brings brokers, the people of Frankfurt, and tourists together in a jovial little crowd. Here you can also enjoy the famous “Green Sauce” of Frankfurt, or a nice hearty steak sandwich together with a glass of Riesling.
At the end of the Schillerstrasse you can already see the Eschenheimer Turm again, but we turn right at Bull and Bear (a monument for the ups and downs of the financial markets) onto the square in front of the stock exchange, and past the parking garage of the Stock market where it goes back to the rampart.
Again, we see a large pond in front of us with some building works in the distance, and some of the Frankfurt Bank towers rising at the end of the pond. But before that, the banking House of culture can be seen: the Alte Oper. Actually it should be torn down, but that has been prevented by the citizens of Frankfurt. Thank God!

21:00
o'clock
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My personal tip: Take your last drink on this trip on the terrace of the restaurant of the Opera and look over the Opera square at the Taunusanlage, another part of the rampart. From here, you can reach the Kaiserstrasse and the Main. Enjoy it.

Photo Credits

  • Flemings Hotel Deluxe Frankfurt-City: Courtesy of the hotels
  • Nebbienisches Haus: Andrew-k [CC BY-SA 3.0]
  • Restaurant Opera: Courtesy of the restaurant of the Opera

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